Thailand as I came and felt

First day:

My flight was scheduled for the 31s of January 2013 at 8.40am. But why should it work out as planned? After struggling several hours in the fairly basic and mainly dirty airport of Clark, taking the non tasty food from Mini Stop, the only available shop at the airport, torturing my back on plastic chairs, the 1pm check in time crept slowly to its reflection on my clock, as the flight was delayed to 3.40pm. Some foreigners, with the look of Robinson Crusoe, were sleeping on the floor, surrounded by their backpacks. No reason was stated for the delay, and I was also not informed by e-mail about the late departure. As the plane finally took off, having left behind the last steps of Philippine bureaucracy at the airport, I found myself in a stage of sleeping and consuming the digestible offered on board.

A layer of thick clouds hindered the sight of approach towards the Suvarnabhumi International Airport Bangkok. Yet one thing stroke my eyes, as we had finally landed, it was the beautiful modern, with traditional interspersed elements of the building. A walk towards the complete other side of the airport, after having checked through the Immigration; lead me to the pickup service of my hotel. Immediately I was able to feel the respectful gesture towards me and other fellow humans. Although the behavior partly must lie in the social upbringing, but my first thought was, that as a tourist destination the peoples are left to show respect to the visiting humans. Tourism is a huge income source for the country, so service should reflect on the attitude of the peoples involved in this field. The shuttle was ready to take off, as a big and with tattoos decorated, already having arrived drunken British man, was going to be a part of the tour. He seemed to have been coming to Bangkok since many years, and his only topic was sex with women.

The hotel was just ten minutes from the airport, situated in a side street, parallel to the main road towards Bangkok and the railway track. I don't think the hotel was a typical tourist hotel for a one or two weeks’ vacation, as most people’s just stayed for a night, to continue their travel to Pattaya or other countries. This was so obvious to me, as the lists with the incoming and outgoing guests, were laid openly on the receptions desk. The room was big and modern, equipped with all needed for a stay. The wall sockets were compatible with the ones from Philippines, so at least I was able to set up me writing station. Although my plan was to relax the first evening, I couldn't hold myself from going to the nearby area, looking for a foot massage and a local meal. The food, I can only say “blew my mind”. It was a celebration for the gustatory nerves. I ate the famous Thai Tom Yum Soup. Although there were at nearly every house small Buddhist shrines, when walking, it was mind relaxing seeing no churches and mosques, no billboards and signboards with messages about a jesus and a god.

Second day:

Although the train was near, I decided to use a taxi, just for the first day, and I was even confirmed, no longer to use a taxi anymore. As I had already found out about the route to where I wanted to go, and the kilometers nearly doubled on the taxi meter, the taxi blew my budget with 450 Baht plus 75 Baht toll fee for the highway. There was no way to complain towards the driver, as he didn't understand me. I regarded this as a tour, and knew that instead of 525 Baht, next time 90 Baht train fare could take care of the same route. Language is of course a problem, yet peoples on the street are very friendly and helpful, and especially the officers and securities, wrote down the Thai words for the English written places I had noted down on my papers. The Tuc-Tuc is also a transport one should also be aware of scam. I was given the double price as normal, yet if I would agree to pass by a market to buy something, the driver would half the price, thus to normal, and also collect his commission for anything I would have bought of course. For any normal tourist it would sound ok, but I just felt that the driver had a plan with me. So one has to stay strong and say no and find the right driver, who will just go the place of aim.

The National museum was said to be closed on Friday, and also that didn't seem right to me, because the driver of the Tuc-Tuc, told me to visit other places instead. Again after finding a driver willing to bring me to the museum, I of course found an open establishment. After the museum, I went to visit the ancient city with all local and Buddhist buildings. Once again, I found a neat and clean city, with very quiet and civilized peoples. Horns are hardly used in traffic and peoples shouting or insulting each other has not been observed by me throughout. Also the pollution of the city seems low, as the air was quite good, compared to Manila for example, and due to less citizens on a bigger area, traffic is not such a problem too, being reduced by modern train systems above and underground. A small ferry took me over a river, and a bus took me back to the train station. I took my dinner in a local restaurant, and tasted the local beer, called Leo beer.

Third day:

Today was the time to visit the floating market at Taling Chan. It would be a very long trip. I started off with the SRTET Airport Link Train from Lat Krabang to Phaya Thai, and then stepped over to Chong Nonsi using the BTS train. From there I walked to the bus, using bus line 84 to Charan Sanitwong, stepping over to bus line 146, leading me to Taling Chan. Even with limited English, peoples tried to help me, and write down the Thai words on my paper, for me to show the bus conductor. Having arrived in Taling Chan, I still needed to walk around 20 minutes to the market. I had been already 4 hours on the way. At the market I took some food and enjoyed another type of market. I learnt, when going back, that there was another bus line 515, which would bring me to the Victory Monument, reducing my travel time nearly 2 hours. From there I had just one BTS ride to Phaya Thai, and then the final ride back to Lat Krabang with the SRTET.

Fourth day:

Sunday, my fourth day is slowly coming to an end. Again I have overused my legs and feet, but Bangkok is so huge, and it’s not enough to rely on train and bus, sometimes taxi and Tuc-Tuc. The Tuc-Tuc is one of the biggest money eaters in town, as it charges un-proportional for small distances, thus it is better to walk more. From the nearest station, located from my hotel, I can only take the Airport Link Train to Phaya Thai. But from there the BTS will take peoples all around a huge area. Today the BTS took me to one of its last stations “Mo Chit”, where I found a big park and a market, giving me the option to walk and eat. A nearby new complex had just opened, letting me find a nice Thai restaurant, to have my meal. Having experienced stomach trouble at the first day, due to the different food and the hot spices, I learnt to tell the waiter to leave out the chili, cause I really didn’t want my intestines blown out on a daily bases. Yet I must say, Thai food is one of the best and it’s healthy. Back at Phaya Thai I explored that area too, and found it hectic and busy. But one thing caught my eyes; a stall selling roasted “grass hoppers” I must say they were delicious, a combination of salty and sweet and a bit like nuts. Finally I enjoyed my daily Thai massage, and my dinner at a local restaurant near to my hotel.

Fifth day:

Monday was my wellness day. Five hours at Shewa Spa in the Ram Buttri Phra Nakhon, was another distance to manage. But it was worth it. Again after taking my Airport Link Train, the BTS took me to Ratchathewi. From there I took a bus to Thanon Phetchaburi, and this was not easy, as a security officer had written down the name where to go in Thai, but the bus line 503 didn’t come. I was forced to take a Tuc-Tuc to the Spa, but I was lucky, as the driver was alright, charging normal prices. The Spa was in a touristic area, but still having prices comparable to the rest of the city. I started off with a one hour foot massage, then a two hour herbal massage, and finally a more than one hour facial treatment with all sorts of cleaning procedures and a mask at the end. In between I was served tea.

Being relaxed and refreshed, I went to a nice restaurant a few houses further, and slowly enjoyed the Thai cuisine and the sun set.

Sixth day:

This Tuesday was another walking day, going to the high class areas of Bangkok, enjoying the malls and the really clean street life. Also I had time to reflect and let the impressions of Bangkok sink in.

My overall enthusiasm for a vibrant and modern, and all in all generally clean city, with low pollution and fantastic food, has come down a nit. The biggest problem is the language, as communication is difficult through that. But with lots of patience, one can find the way, due to the friendly and helpful peoples. Armed with maps and notes from already made experience, and with help from the hotel staff and officers in the street, it works out fine.

But still all is business, and I could really feel it. Mentioning trains and buses to hotel staff, makes them try to say that it’s not good to use, and one should hire a taxi always. But that really makes a difference. Using the way the suggest would have cost me up to 2500 Baht a day, and the way I was moving only cost me around 250 Baht, so that money could be better spent on buying nice things and on dining. Taxis also scam newcomers, and if they know that you don’t know the way, they will take a longer route, as what had happened to me in the beginning.

Yet in general I can state that Bangkok is safe, and it is in my eyes a very relaxed nation. No aggression in the streets, and hardy a horn used by car drivers in traffic.

Being nearly free of monotheistic religions, it sticks out to observe, mostly black Americans giving out leaflets and a singing Thai children’s group behind them, in the street. This looks rather ridiculous, pushing their useless attempt to tell peoples about their irrational belief system. One can hardly spot a church in Bangkok, and there is one area where the mosques are concentrated in one area. I was just on my way up to the BTS, as a guy handed me such a leaflet. I remarked: “You are wasting your time here. Do you really think you can convert this nation to your inhumane and useless religion?” With furious eyes he wished me to his imaginary hell of course.

Not being able to really speak to peoples, makes Bangkok, in my eyes, a place more suited for couples to travel to. There are so many foreigners in Bangkok, and the local peoples are used to that. They don’t really pay attention to them, and they also don’t approach foreigners, unless to do business. Although Bangkok is modernized, it has kept its traditions, and it is thus not westernized, as it has never been colonized before. It is a little bit like walking in the West, where also nobody cares or has time for the other. What further can I say about Bangkok? Well it’s strongly developing, it’s a Kingdom with a democratic parliament and as in the UK, and cars are

driving on the left hand side. Thailand is a very free country, with all legal rights, even for prostitution, LGBT and sex toys are sold in the street. But one thing is better kept within; one cannot talk about politics and the king to peoples easily. The king is like a sacred figure, better not to be discussed. But if one regards that one is left to enjoy life. Many facilities are even more developed as in Europe, and I can strongly feel that Asia is taking over the stronger role in the world. Even I have not yet visited Japan or China, Thailand gives yet this direction of impression. Europe counts to the first world, and yes it still is, due to its social system and the average income level. But on the other hand it is like resting on its present stage, whilst other nations are running faster and catching up. Many major inventions are from the West, but it looks like Asia has picked them up to develop them further.

Seventh day:

And another city and exploring day would let me inhale more about Bangkok. But at this day I was going to meet two peoples of the Thai Atheists. It was adventurous to find each other in the street, as I had no phone on me, and we just set the place and time through the internet. Six o’clock came and there was no sight of them in front of Bangkok Bank at Siam BTS station. After an hour waiting I went to an internet café opposite the place, and I found some messages there. One person must have not recognized me, as he wrote that he had left the place, but the others were still searching for me. So I left a message and went back. I then finally met up with Dhanest and Ponlawoot. I was invited to dinner by them, and we had a long good talk about Atheism in Thailand.

The Thai Atheists were founded in 2011, and they have 2000 followers. Only few are physically active, and there has yet only been one meeting. More and more I was told about the system and the way to live as a Atheist in Thailand. It is ok to be an Atheist, but criticizing the religion is not gladly seen, and so coming out as such, needs a solid personal foundation.

After some hours of exchange, we parted in the wish to meet back again one day, and also with many more members of the community.

Last day:

As the flight was scheduled for 6.45, I had good time to sleep long, pack slowly and take a last walk. Funny, but although The Philippines is known as a macho society, and Thailand is not, Thai peoples look harder in their ways and expression as Filipinos. But every nation has its own way of friendliness and the way of showing feelings. As a foreigner, one has always have to be alert, as the aim to get money out of your pocket, and the goal to make some kind of business is always around. Friendliness is the tool for a successful business if good, and a rip off if with bad intentions. Good about Thailand is, that nobody disturbs in the shops, no pressure selling. There are no silly questions about if one is married, what religion one has or business. In Thailand men and women are the same in terms of rights, and being with a woman or a man also makes no difference. In fact there is no real word for “gay” in Thai, as gays are just a normal part of society, not stigmatized. This leads to a general exclusion of peoples discrimination or rejecting a gay as a gay, an LGBT as an LGBT. Yet I am not saying that there is no discrimination, as the laws do not make LGBT’s equal yet. But I have the feeling there is a trend towards that now. Thai food is a true culture a delight for the one liking food, not just to get filled up. It is not rive dominant and many foods are eaten raw.

One week had flown quickly as expected, and the airport gave the last glance of Bangkok. Thailand is a bit more expensive as Philippines, but prices are still fair in my eyes, as even the airport is not a rip off like in Europe. At Gate 5 I could see the plane rolling on. “It’s more fun in The Philippines” was written on it, and I had to ask myself if this is the case. Thailand is sure a better promoted and highly frequented country by foreigners, and Philippines has just a fraction of tourists, due to no or low promotion abroad. What Philippines has to offer is more hidden, but surely worth seeing when knowing, and one thing is essential; in Philippines one can say what one wants, and it’s easy to go to and stay in.

The grass isn’t greener elsewhere, but its green where one feels best.

By Thomas Fleckner